Must de Cartier

Must de Cartier by Cartier is a feminine-leaning eau de parfum from 1981 in the designer price tier. It opens with mandarin, galbanum and aldehydes, moves into jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang and narcissus and dries down to vanilla, sandalwood, civet, amber and oakmoss. Expect around 10 hours of wear, and it projects strongly.

Notes, explained

Opening

Mandarin Soft, sweet, almost powdery citrus. Gentler than orange.
Galbanum Intensely green resin. Smells like snapping a plant stem in half.
Aldehydes Fizzy, soapy, slightly waxy. The 'sparkle' at the top of Chanel No. 5.

Heart

Jasmine Heady, sweet and slightly animal underneath. Rarely subtle.
Rose Can be jammy, green, peppery or soapy depending on the type. Not one smell.
Ylang-Ylang Banana-custard floral. Rich, tropical and slightly rubbery.
Narcissus Green, hay-like and slightly animalic. Strange and beautiful.

Dry-down

Vanilla Sweet, creamy and warm. The most comforting note in perfumery.
Sandalwood Creamy, milky wood. Soft and almost edible.
Civet Sharp, faecal and intense on its own. In trace amounts it makes florals glow.
Amber Warm, golden and resinous. Not a real material — a blend that glows.
Oakmoss Damp forest floor. Bitter, green and the backbone of every chypre.

Smells like this

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