First

First by Van Cleef & Arpels is a feminine-leaning eau de parfum from 1976 in the premium price tier. It opens with aldehydes, bergamot, mandarin and hyacinth, moves into jasmine, rose, narcissus, ylang-ylang and orris root and dries down to sandalwood, vetiver, amber, musk and civet. Expect around 10 hours of wear, and it projects strongly.

Notes, explained

Opening

Aldehydes Fizzy, soapy, slightly waxy. The 'sparkle' at the top of Chanel No. 5.
Bergamot Sharp citrus with a faint bitter edge. The opening of about half of all men's fragrances.
Mandarin Soft, sweet, almost powdery citrus. Gentler than orange.
Hyacinth Cold, green, watery floral. Smells like early spring.

Heart

Jasmine Heady, sweet and slightly animal underneath. Rarely subtle.
Rose Can be jammy, green, peppery or soapy depending on the type. Not one smell.
Narcissus Green, hay-like and slightly animalic. Strange and beautiful.
Ylang-Ylang Banana-custard floral. Rich, tropical and slightly rubbery.
Orris Root Iris root aged for years. Buttery, powdery, unmistakably refined.

Dry-down

Sandalwood Creamy, milky wood. Soft and almost edible.
Vetiver Dry, earthy, smoky grass root. Smells like soil and citrus peel.
Amber Warm, golden and resinous. Not a real material — a blend that glows.
Musk Warm, skin-like and slightly sweet. Makes a fragrance feel like you.
Civet Sharp, faecal and intense on its own. In trace amounts it makes florals glow.

Smells like this

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