Fleur de Portofino
Fleur de Portofino by Tom Ford is an unisex eau de parfum from 2015 in the luxury price tier. It opens with mandarin, bergamot, lemon, petitgrain and violet leaf, moves into jasmine, magnolia, orange blossom, osmanthus and rose and dries down to honey, civet, ambrette seed, vanilla, tolu balsam and labdanum. Expect around 6 hours of wear, and it projects at a moderate level.
Notes, explained
Opening
- Mandarin Soft, sweet, almost powdery citrus. Gentler than orange.
- Bergamot Sharp citrus with a faint bitter edge. The opening of about half of all men's fragrances.
- Lemon Clean, sour, instantly recognisable. Bright but burns off fast.
- Petitgrain Bitter twigs and leaves of the orange tree. Dry and a little green.
- Violet Leaf Crisp, watery green with a metallic edge. Cool rather than fresh.
Heart
- Jasmine Heady, sweet and slightly animal underneath. Rarely subtle.
- Magnolia Lemony white floral. Bright and clean rather than heavy.
- Orange Blossom Sweet, soapy and sunny. Neroli's warmer sibling.
- Osmanthus Apricot-and-leather floral. Unusual, warm and very wearable.
- Rose Can be jammy, green, peppery or soapy depending on the type. Not one smell.
Dry-down
- Honey Sweet, waxy and slightly animalic. Can smell dirty in large doses.
- Civet Sharp, faecal and intense on its own. In trace amounts it makes florals glow.
- Ambrette Seed The only natural musk. Pear-like, warm and slightly boozy.
- Vanilla Sweet, creamy and warm. The most comforting note in perfumery.
- Tolu Balsam Warm, sweet, slightly cinnamon resin. Rich and rounded.
- Labdanum Sticky, leathery resin. Dark honey and old books.
Smells like this
- Vivienne Westwood Boudoir
- Guerlain Shalimar Philtre de Parfum
- Jo Malone Red Roses
- Heretic Parfum Nocturnal Tuberose
- Estée Lauder Sensuous
- Tauer Perfumes Golestan
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