Moth

Moth by Zoologist is an unisex extrait de parfum from 2018 in the niche price tier. It opens with black pepper, cinnamon, clove, cumin, nutmeg and saffron, moves into heliotrope, iris, jasmine, mimosa, lily of the valley and rose and dries down to ambergris, honey, guaiac wood, oud, patchouli and smoke. Expect around 9 hours of wear, and it projects at a moderate level.

Notes, explained

Opening

Black Pepper Dry and prickly. Gives a fragrance grip and a bit of bite.
Cinnamon Sweet heat. Reads festive, sometimes to a fault.
Clove Hot, dry and dental. Powerful — a little goes a long way.
Cumin Warm, spicy and unmistakably sweaty. Divides rooms.
Nutmeg Warm, woody and slightly sweet. Cosy without being gourmand.
Saffron Leathery, medicinal and slightly metallic. The signature of modern niche.

Heart

Heliotrope Almond, vanilla and powder. Smells like marzipan and old-fashioned makeup.
Iris Cool, powdery, slightly carroty and expensive. The luxury note.
Jasmine Heady, sweet and slightly animal underneath. Rarely subtle.
Mimosa Soft, powdery, honeyed yellow flower. Gentle and comforting.
Lily of the Valley Clean, green, dewy floral. Reads as 'fresh laundry' to most people.
Rose Can be jammy, green, peppery or soapy depending on the type. Not one smell.

Dry-down

Ambergris Salty, animal, sun-warmed skin. Marine and musky at once.
Honey Sweet, waxy and slightly animalic. Can smell dirty in large doses.
Guaiac Wood Smoky, tarry and slightly sweet. Like a bonfire and roses.
Oud Resinous, medicinal, barnyard-adjacent wood. The most expensive note in perfumery.
Patchouli Damp earth and dark chocolate. Either you love it or it's your least favourite note.
Smoke Charred and dry. Adds drama fast.

Smells like this

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