Bel Ami

Bel Ami by Hermès is a masculine-leaning eau de toilette from 1986 in the premium price tier. It opens with lemon, bergamot, mandarin and cardamom, moves into leather, carnation, jasmine and cedarwood and dries down to vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, sandalwood and tonka bean. Expect around 8 hours of wear, and it projects strongly.

Notes, explained

Opening

Lemon Clean, sour, instantly recognisable. Bright but burns off fast.
Bergamot Sharp citrus with a faint bitter edge. The opening of about half of all men's fragrances.
Mandarin Soft, sweet, almost powdery citrus. Gentler than orange.
Cardamom Cool, aromatic spice with a eucalyptus lift. Smells expensive.

Heart

Leather Smoky, dry and a bit animal. Can be a new jacket or an old saddle.
Carnation Spicy, clove-like floral. Old-school and a bit peppery.
Jasmine Heady, sweet and slightly animal underneath. Rarely subtle.
Cedarwood Dry, pencil-shaving woodiness. Clean and structural.

Dry-down

Vetiver Dry, earthy, smoky grass root. Smells like soil and citrus peel.
Patchouli Damp earth and dark chocolate. Either you love it or it's your least favourite note.
Oakmoss Damp forest floor. Bitter, green and the backbone of every chypre.
Sandalwood Creamy, milky wood. Soft and almost edible.
Tonka Bean Almond, hay and vanilla in one. Warm and slightly nutty.

Smells like this

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