Rook
Rook by Rook Perfumes is an unisex eau de parfum in the niche price tier. It opens with smoke, birch tar, cardamom, ginger and ylang-ylang, moves into oud, tobacco leaf, guaiac wood, violet and aldehydes and dries down to castoreum, vetiver, ambrette seed, civet, ambergris and incense. Expect around 8 hours of wear, and it projects at a moderate level.
Notes, explained
Opening
- Smoke Charred and dry. Adds drama fast.
- Birch Tar Smoked, tarry and campfire-like. The classic way to build leather.
- Cardamom Cool, aromatic spice with a eucalyptus lift. Smells expensive.
- Ginger Warm, zesty and slightly soapy. Bridges citrus and spice.
- Ylang-Ylang Banana-custard floral. Rich, tropical and slightly rubbery.
Heart
- Oud Resinous, medicinal, barnyard-adjacent wood. The most expensive note in perfumery.
- Tobacco Leaf Greener and drier than cured tobacco. Hay-like.
- Guaiac Wood Smoky, tarry and slightly sweet. Like a bonfire and roses.
- Violet Powdery, sweet and a bit retro. Parma Violets in flower form.
- Aldehydes Fizzy, soapy, slightly waxy. The 'sparkle' at the top of Chanel No. 5.
Dry-down
- Castoreum Leathery, smoky and warm. Adds depth and a bit of danger.
- Vetiver Dry, earthy, smoky grass root. Smells like soil and citrus peel.
- Ambrette Seed The only natural musk. Pear-like, warm and slightly boozy.
- Civet Sharp, faecal and intense on its own. In trace amounts it makes florals glow.
- Ambergris Salty, animal, sun-warmed skin. Marine and musky at once.
- Incense Smoky, dry and meditative. Adds gravity to anything.
Smells like this
- BDK Parfums Oud Abramad
- Serge Lutens La Religieuse
- Nishane Afrika Olifant
- Yves Saint Laurent Kouros
- Liquides Imaginaires Fleuve Tendre
- Electimuss Jupiter
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