Iris Poudre
Iris Poudre by Frédéric Malle is a feminine-leaning eau de parfum from 2000 in the luxury price tier. It opens with bergamot, carnation, ylang-ylang and rosewood, moves into jasmine, lily of the valley, magnolia, rose, violet and aldehydes and dries down to orris root, ebony, sandalwood, amber, musk and vanilla. Expect around 8 hours of wear, and it projects at a moderate level.
Notes, explained
Opening
- Bergamot Sharp citrus with a faint bitter edge. The opening of about half of all men's fragrances.
- Carnation Spicy, clove-like floral. Old-school and a bit peppery.
- Ylang-Ylang Banana-custard floral. Rich, tropical and slightly rubbery.
- Rosewood Soft, rosy wood. Gentle and slightly floral.
Heart
- Jasmine Heady, sweet and slightly animal underneath. Rarely subtle.
- Lily of the Valley Clean, green, dewy floral. Reads as 'fresh laundry' to most people.
- Magnolia Lemony white floral. Bright and clean rather than heavy.
- Rose Can be jammy, green, peppery or soapy depending on the type. Not one smell.
- Violet Powdery, sweet and a bit retro. Parma Violets in flower form.
- Aldehydes Fizzy, soapy, slightly waxy. The 'sparkle' at the top of Chanel No. 5.
Dry-down
- Orris Root Iris root aged for years. Buttery, powdery, unmistakably refined.
- Ebony Dense, dry and dark. Wood with no sweetness to it.
- Sandalwood Creamy, milky wood. Soft and almost edible.
- Amber Warm, golden and resinous. Not a real material — a blend that glows.
- Musk Warm, skin-like and slightly sweet. Makes a fragrance feel like you.
- Vanilla Sweet, creamy and warm. The most comforting note in perfumery.
Smells like this
- Calvin Klein Contradiction
- Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue
- Chanel N°5 Eau Première
- Amouage Reflection Woman
- Moroccanoil L'Originale
- Donna Karan Cashmere Mist
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