Cuir de Russie

Cuir de Russie by Chanel is an unisex eau de toilette from 1924 in the luxury price tier. It opens with aldehydes, orange blossom, bergamot and mandarin, moves into iris, jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang and dries down to leather, birch tar, vetiver, amber and sandalwood. Expect around 10 hours of wear, and it projects strongly.

Notes, explained

Opening

Aldehydes Fizzy, soapy, slightly waxy. The 'sparkle' at the top of Chanel No. 5.
Orange Blossom Sweet, soapy and sunny. Neroli's warmer sibling.
Bergamot Sharp citrus with a faint bitter edge. The opening of about half of all men's fragrances.
Mandarin Soft, sweet, almost powdery citrus. Gentler than orange.

Heart

Iris Cool, powdery, slightly carroty and expensive. The luxury note.
Jasmine Heady, sweet and slightly animal underneath. Rarely subtle.
Rose Can be jammy, green, peppery or soapy depending on the type. Not one smell.
Ylang-Ylang Banana-custard floral. Rich, tropical and slightly rubbery.

Dry-down

Leather Smoky, dry and a bit animal. Can be a new jacket or an old saddle.
Birch Tar Smoked, tarry and campfire-like. The classic way to build leather.
Vetiver Dry, earthy, smoky grass root. Smells like soil and citrus peel.
Amber Warm, golden and resinous. Not a real material — a blend that glows.
Sandalwood Creamy, milky wood. Soft and almost edible.

Smells like this

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